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The
racing is over, the cars and the crowds have gone. There’s nothing but a
ribbon of tarmac, deserted buildings and advertising.
Yet a racing circuit still stirs the emotions, even when there’s no
racing.
Stand on the start line at any great venue – as James Garner does at Monza in the film Grand
Prix – and you can almost hear the roar of the engines, and see the great
names of the past battling wheel to-wheel down to the first corner.
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Andrew Noaks goes in
search of Ulster's twin TT road courses, at Newtownards and Dundrod – in
an Audi TT Roadster. Then:
Fangio swings his Mercedes SLR round the Dundrod hairpin in 1955. |
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Now: The Audi TT's four-wheel drive aids grip at the same spot.
Click on the images for more detail. |
But as the traffic speeds out of Belfast on the main A20 and on into
Dundonald, only those who stop to take in the imposing frontage of Stormont
Castle will have any feeling of the closeness of history. Which is a pity,
for less than half a mile further on is the piece of history we’ve come to
Ireland in an Audi TT roadster to see: here the road becomes part of a
racing circuit which was described as the greatest of its era.
Though dual carriageways have obliterated the original pits and grandstand
of the Ards circuit, where the Tourist Trophy races were held from 1928 to
1936, a stone wall with a plaque marks the spot. We park the Audi for a
photo, but the weather has other ideas: the day-long threat of rain has
become reality. It reminds me that in the 1928 race, won by Kaye Don’s
Lea-Francis, the rules required the drivers to complete two laps with their
hoods raised and then lower them before continuing – or not, in the case of
Malcolm Campbell’s Bugatti, which caught fire in the pits.
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The 13½
mile Ards circuit.
Click on the image for more detail. |
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In 1929 the process was reversed: the drivers
sprinted across the Belfast road in a ‘Le Mans’ start, then lowered their
hoods before racing away. I’m not going to try that, not with four lanes of
traffic to contend with and a roof which is electrically operated, but then
needs a fiddly plastic cover to be extricated from the boot and fitted over
it once it has been lowered. Anyway, the angry sky suggests there will be
little chance for us to drop the Audi’s roof today. We turn left at Quarry
Corner, a natural amphitheatre which attracted huge crowds and caused no
shortage of incidents – most famously in 1932, when Freddie Dixon’s Riley
left the road, leapt the hedge, and landed in a cabbagepatch.
Sweeping bends then take us up to Glen Hill,
where that year ‘Goldie’ Gardner crashed his MG and broke his leg, ending
his racing career – though he went on to enjoy success in record breaking.
Bradshaw’s Brae led the cars back down the hill, and with a steep gradient
and seven tricky bends in half a mile, many a crew never reached the bottom
in one piece. In1929 a fascinating battle between Glen Kidson’s 6½-litre
Bentley and Rudolf Caracciola’s Mercedes was resolved in the original
Regenmeister’s favour when rain caused Kidson to skid on the Brae, narrowly
missing a telegraph pole and ending up in a ditch. In 1935 three Singers
crashed on the Brae with identical steering failures, and a fourth had to be
withdrawn.
A half-mile straight led the cars into Conway Square in Newtownards. The
square is now pedestrianised, so you can safely stand in what was the road
between a row of shops and the Town Hall, and wonder how Caracciola, Kidson
and the rest could wrestle huge and unruly motorcars at racing speeds
through such a tiny gap – though many bounced off the sand bags next to the
Town Hall during the rain of ’29. Drivers often failed to brake hard enough
for the corner and took to the ‘escape road’ behind the Town Hall, and this
is the route we must follow in the Audi, rejoining the old circuit in South
Street. The imposing Town Hall remains visible in the mirrors for half a
mile or more as the road tracks straight out of Newtownards along the
fastest part of the circuit, but today roadworks are creating a traffic jam
which prevents us from exploiting the Audi’s 225bhp. There’s more dual
carriageway here, and Scrabo Tower – a folly built by the Marquis of
Queensberry– is visible on the hill to our right, with Strangford Lough to
the left. As we sweep right towards Comber, old pictures suggest we should
see a white house on the right but there’s no sign of it. I consult the map,
but eventually we conclude that the house must have been bulldozed when the
road was widened.
The railway has gone, and there’s no sign of the Glassmoss level crossing
which unsettled the cars on the way to Comber and the infamous ‘Butcher’s
Shop Corner’. In 1931Sir Henry Birkin’s Alfa joined the long list of cars to
end up in the sand bags here, after he was outwitted by Guiseppe Campari.
Traffic lights have been added, and paving has replaced the cobbles, but
otherwise little has changed. There’s still a chemist on one side and
McWhinney’s the butcher on the other, where Mrs McWhinney showed me the TT
photos on the shop walls. Hugh McWhinney, whose name was above the door in
the 1930s, was her father-in-law. “Reporters used to sit upstairs,” says Mrs
McWhinney. “They could see all the way down Bridge Street and around the
corner.”
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Both the butcher's
and chemist's shops in Comber were there in 1931
when Sir Henry Birkin's privately-entered Alfa Romeo ended up in the
sand bags. |
Bridge Street is narrow and bumpy even today, and leads us to a restaurant
called TT which is full of memorabilia and photos. The road to Dundonald
joins the end of the Comber bypass, built on the old railway embankment: the
circuit passed under the railway, but there’s little suggestion of it save
for a short row of ‘railway cuttings’ cottages.
At Ballystockart, where the road passed close by another bridge on the
now-defunct railway, caught out a number of drivers. The first Ards TT
fatality occurred here in 1929,when Frank Clark crashed his OM and
Grindlay’s Triumph Super Seven, the first car on the scene, skidded into
marshals who were trying to move it. Clark and an official were killed.
Birkin’s Bentley hit the wall and retired in 1930, the year Nuvolari won in
an Alfa. On the way to Dundonald the course passed under another railway
bridge, marked now by the remains of an embankment, and skirted the town on
its way to a hairpin with an off-licence on the inside. It’s still there,
though the race-day banners for the Daily Mail, Dunlop, Shelland Pratts
Motor Spirit are gone and traffic lights control the junction where we turn
right, onto the A20.
The rain doesn’t ease as we head back to the start line: it was like this in
1933, when Tazio Nuvolari and Alec Hounslow won one of the greatest TT
victories in an MGK3 that Nuvolari hadn’t even seen, let alone driven it,
before the meeting. Asked afterwards what he thought of the MG’s brakes,
Nuvolari is reputed to have said he had no opinion – because he hadn’t used
them…
The Audi is swift and sure-footed round Quarry Corner and down the twisty
and slippery Bradshaw’s Brae. The run to town from here looks easy, but was
to see the end of racing at Ards: in 1936 local driver Jack Chambers lost
his Riley under the bridge and hit a lamp post. Eight spectators were
killed, dozens more injured. Enough was enough; the TT had to find a new
home.
The TT moved to Donington for two years, then the war intervened. There
wasn’t another TT until 1950. After running a lower-profile Ulster Trophy
race at Ballyclare, the Ulster Automobile Club found the Dundrod circuit in
the country roads to the west of Belfast which avoided towns entirely.
Narrower, and rising nearly500ft from Cochranstown in the west toWheeler’s
Corner in the east, Dundrod was a driver’s circuit: the deep ditches and
stonewalls lining the route left no room for error.
Dundrod is still used today for motorcycle racing, and grid markings are
clearly visible on the short but wide start/finish straight. As we park the
Audi in pole position, I notice flowers and photographs covering the wire
fence edging the road –tributes to multiple motorcycle TT champion Joey
Dunlop, a local lad, who died in a racing accident a week earlier.
The Dundrod pits seem as good a place as any for a poke under the bonnet of
the Audi. All TT Roadsters in the UK have Quattro four-wheel drive (a
front-drive poverty model is available in Europe) but there are two engine
specs, rated at 180bhp and 225bhp. Both are transversely-mounted in line
fours with five valves per cylinder. Our car has the more powerful engine,
but it’s disappointing to look at, covered up with unpleasant plastic panels
which serve only to add weight, collect dirt and make maintenance more
time-consuming.
Dumping the clutch pedal with enough revs to get the turbo spinning results
in a split-second chirrup from the front tyres. Then the quattro drivetrain
diverts the excess tractive effort to the rear wheels, and the TT takes off.
Even allowing for Dundrod’s downhill start, the Audi gathers pace
impressively as we head towards the tight right turn at the Leathemstown
crossroads where an unmarked RUC car is quietly clocking speeders, so we
take it easy even though the road is fast and open. After a deceptive S-bend
the road climbs to Tullyrusk then drops over the terrifying Deer’s Leap,
where lighter cars would takeoff. After a right turn at Cochranstown the
course climbs through the woods to Wheeler’s, another bend which is slower
than it looks. The Audi races down the short straight to Tornagrough, a long
lefthander which tempts you to squeeze on more throttle all the way through
– and then bites back by feeding straight into a tight downhill
right-hander. At the bottom of the hill lies the hairpin, an angled and
gravel-strewn junction which tries to confuse the Audi’s four-wheel drive
and its computerised stability control, which applies the brakes on
individual wheels to quell oversteer. Then suddenly we’re flashing over the
starting grid. Dundrod is much shorter than Ards (71⁄2 miles against 131⁄2),
and the absence of traffic makes it easy to appreciate the flowing nature of
the circuit. So we do another lap.
Stirling Moss won the first Dundrod TT,the day before his 21st birthday, in
Tommy Wisdom’s alloy-bodied XK120. Tony Rolt partnered him to a second win
in ’51 in a works C-type, but he was denied the chance of a hat-trick when
the ’52 event was cancelled due to a lack of interest from ‘international’
entrants.
The TT was back in 1953. Dundrod’s roads had been treated to a new anti-skid
surface and in practice this caused so much tyre wear that Dunlop chartered
a fleet of aeroplanes to bring in extra stocks of tyres. The Aston Martins
proved more reliable and easier on their tyres than the Jaguars, the Peter
Collins/Pat Griffith DB3S winning from the sister car of Parnell and
Thompson. A DB Panhard won on handicap the following year, and then in 1955
a crowd of 60,000 turned out to watch a single works D-type Jaguar take on
three Mercedes 300SLRs. By the end of the first lap Moss’ Mercedes was
leading from Hawthorn’s Jaguar, but at Deer’s Leap on lap two Jim Mayers
lost control of his Cooper while trying to pass the Vicomte deBarry’s
Mercedes 300SL, hit a stone gatepost and was killed instantly. Bill Smyth’s
Connaught crashed into the wreckage and the driver died from his injuries.
Frantic work by the flag marshals warned the following drivers, but even so
several more accidents were only narrowly avoided. Then, when Mainwaring’s
Elva turned over at Tornagrough, the unfortunate driver was trapped under
the car and died in the subsequent fire.
At the front of the race, Desmond Titteringtontook over from Hawthorn, and
Moss pulled into the pits to hand over to John Fitch with the rear bodywork
in tatters after a tyre stripped its tread. As Fitch rejoined Titterington
raced past in the Jaguar, extending his lead as rain began to fall. Mercedes
then pulled in the SLR for Moss to take over again, and the twice TT winner
set about reducing the Jaguar’s lead. On lap 50 the D-type stopped for fuel,
and Hawthorn took the wheel. On lap 56 Moss caught and passed him, but on
lap 60 the Mercedes was back in the pits for more fuel and a change of rear
tyres – and Hawthorn went by into the lead. Seven miles later Moss slip
streamed the Jaguar past the pits, leading it out into the country. Hawthorn
now fought to stay ahead of the second Mercedes of Fangio and Kling, until
the Jaguar suddenly seized a lap from the end, spinning the car into a side
road just up the hill from the start. With typical style Hawthorn strolled
back to the pits as if nothing had happened, while Moss went on to win his
third TT.
It had been a great race, but also a tragic one. Subsequent TTs would be
held over shorter distances, on dedicated race tracks rather than closed
public roads. Though there would be more great races on some of England’s
greatest race tracks, the Tourist Trophy’s essential character would be left
behind – in Ulster.
The TT’s Start and Finish
The history of Britain’s oldest motor racing trophy
The first Tourist Trophy was a race for cars which had to be available to
buy, had to be fitted with four seats and had to cover four laps of a 52
miles circuit in the Isle of Man while still achieving 25 mpg or better.
John Napier won after a little over six hours in an Arrol-Johnston, with a
Rolls-Royce second. Charles Rolls took a Rolls-Royce Light 20 to victory
(right) the following year, and in 1907 a works-entered Rover won: driver
Ernest Courtis was given a gold watch and a week’s holiday for his
trouble…
While the motorcycle TTs are still held today in the Isle of Man,
the car TTs moved to Ards in 1928. Donington was the venue in 1937/8, but
the TT returned to Ulster after the war. When safety at Dundrod was also
called in to question the TT moved first to Goodwood (where Stirling Moss
racked up three more wins) and then Oulton Park. Silverstone hosted it from
1970, producing the fastest TT of all in 1973 when Derek Bell and Harald
Ertl triumphed against the might of Ford’s RS Capris at an average of
108.783 mph.
Gradually the TT degenerated into just another saloon car race,
and now there’s no race at all – the Trophy is held by the British GT
champion, currently Marcos driver Calum Lockie. |
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Tracing
the TT was first published in Classics magazine, December 2000.
To view the entire article with additional photos,
please click here
to download an Adobe Acrobat .pdf file. |
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